Scratching the surface: Switzerland's Engadine valley may be globally renowned thanks to its most famous town, St. Moritz houses are attractions in themselves, Join us on trail of these cultural gems, which are know as sgraffiti ...
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Rhythmic patterns climb the edge of a wall: floral decorations frame the eaves of a house; geometric patterns transform a small, sunken window into a spectacular feast for the eyes, while two mountain deer appear to be locked in permanent battle above a main doorway: the decorations adorning some houses of the Engadine come across more as a form of art than simple decoration. Their impact is further increased by the contrast they strike against the dull heaviness of the massive, thick walls, common to the local architecture.
A walk along the small, winding roads that weave between the old villages of the Lower Engadine valley--such as Guarda or Ardez--gives the impression that time has stood still. "This ancient, decorative custom was imported from neighbouring Italy in the 16th century," said Diego Giovanoli, a published author on Engadine architecture.
Even though many buildings in the area were destroyed during the Thirty Years War, which ended in 1648 (see sidebar), sgraffiti experienced a revival in the 17th and 18th centuries, when Italian master craftsmen travelled through the Engadine in search of work.
Historical etchings
Deriving from the Italian word graffiare--which means to scratch--the technique consists of etching a design into wet plaster, to reveal a different colour underneath.
"Perhaps one of the most spectacular sgraffiti in Switzerland is in Roveredo [still in Graubtinden, but near the Ticino border]. [It] is some 10 to 12 metres long and portrays a scene from ancient Greek mythology," Giovanoli said.
Engadine's sgraffiti, however, has a more naive quality; a simpler feel in both subject matter and technique, rather than being overly elaborate.
"Sgraffiti was also very much used for architectural purposes," Giovanoli explained. "The mountain houses were designed to keep out the cold--with heavy walls and small, inset windows--and the sgraffiti technique provided the local population with a chance to create an optical illusion on a building's facade and give the impression of a less inset window or of a more elegant wall."
The edges of buildings are often decorated with etchings that give the impression of stone corners--a sign of a wealthier abode. Lines racing towards inset windows appear to open up deeply recessed openings.
Symbolism is also rife. A wave-like motif, known as the "running dog" and also visible in ancient classical decorations, symbolises life--past and future, highs and lows. A...
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