Maximum pleasure: what does it take to be the best of the best-to perfect the art for which Switzerland is famous?
Around the world, Switzerland is synonymous with chocolate. Indeed, the modern chocolate industry was born in Vevey first with the development of solid chocolate bars by Francois Louis Cailler, who opened the first Swiss chocolate factory in 1819, and then with Daniel Peter's 1875 introduction of milk chocolate, an innovation that rapidly became the global standard. The argument over whether Belgian or Swiss chocolate is best will never be
for quality is unshakeable.
So it would be a brave soul indeed who would set himself the goal of producing the best chocolate in Switzerland. But the owner of a small chocolate studio on the banks of Lake Lucerne has done just that. In a market already crowded with well-known brands laying claim to the title of "best Swiss chocolate", how do you stand out?
The pillars of quality
Patrick Koenig is building his challenge on four pillars: "handmade, Swiss, 100% natural and unique". In the bijou atelier on Schweizerhofquai, it's clear that these values aren't just trendy buzzwords--they are deeply embedded in the business, from packaging to interior design, with the shop fitted out in Swiss oak and Valais granite and each chocolate bar carefully hand stamped. But most importantly, of course, these qualities are imbued in the product itself. It starts with the very best ingredients. The couverture is from another Max: Max Felchin, the smallest producer in Switzerland. The fairly traded cocoa beans of course come from exotic locales--Madagascar, Indonesia, Bolivia--and in the interest of sourcing the very best, pistachios come from Iran and hazelnuts from Piedmont; but wherever possible, the flavourings are local. Really local. In fact, the cream used comes from Max's very own cow. (She must have been destined for this life: the name given to her long before she was bought by the chocolatier was Pralina!) Other distinctly Swiss flavours include Alpine herbs, Edelweiss and ... hay?!
Fear not: the flavours have clearly been developed with great care to achieve that goal of uniqueness without becoming simply novelties. Salted caramels are everywhere these days, and are frankly overrated, but Max's balsamic caramel plattli are a revelation. The caramel is the first flavour, as it should be, with the balsamic vinegar providing depth and drama. In fact, balance and restraint are hallmarks of the house; the pleasure of pure chocolate is never overwhelmed by even strong flavourings such as ginger or chilli. A white...
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