Been There, Done That...

Nordic ReachVol. 20 Nbr. 22, September 2007News

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Summary


You've been to Copenhagen, Stockholm and Helsinki. Maybe you took a cruise in the Baltic or a tour up the Norwegian fjord coaslline... but you're not quite ready for Greenland or Iceland. Consider then Sweden's and Finland's north - the Lapland region, which offers some staggering experiences with a day or two in the countries' capitals. Just in case you're not picking up your new car during a Jukkasjärvi-Kebnekajse adventure or happen to be related to a reindeer herder, here's an experience off the beaten track, in Finland.

On my first night I'm in a glass igloo, which is unique to Kakslauttanen. Jussi realized guests in the ice igloos were torn between staying (relatively) warm inside and watching for the Northern Lights outside. His high-tech solution was to construct igloos of heated glass. 85% of the heat keeps the igloo warm, the rest keeps the outside clear of snow. Turn off the lights, lie back, and gaze at the sky until you drift into sleep. The display is amazing - more stars than I've ever seen.

The following morning, the clear sky has sent the temperature reeling down to -22° F, despite which I join a husky sledding excursion. Provided with two-person sleds, one person sits while the other stands on the back and operates the foot brake, the only form of control you have over 6 dogs. Following the path set by a snow-mobile, the huskies speed off into the woods as they are released. It seems daunting, but in practice I have nothing to do other than hold on tight and stop my team from overtaking the sled ahead. The Lappish landscape we're speeding through is exquisitely beautiful. On the horizon a pink glow shows where the sun is rising. Perfectly smooth snow stretches in all directions and weighs down drooping pine branches. Birch trees look like they've been dipped in sugar, each twig coated in sparkling ice. We stop for lunch round a fire in a tepee, eating salmon and potato soup and rieska, a barley-based flatbread. I'm surprised to learn we've already covered six miles. We take a different route back and when I hear the dogs barking at our return I'm sorry it's over; it had proven to be so much more fun than I expected. When we stop, the dogs spring into the air, jumping and pulling at their harnesses with sheer impatience. They roll in snow drifts at the side of the track and take bites of snow to quench their thirst.

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Been There, Done That...

THE DEEP FREEZE IN LAPLAND

As the world seems to be warming, more people are craving a real winter experience, and tourism in Lapland is booming. But don't expect crowds - Finland still has enormous stretches of pristine snow.

Thirty minutes by car from Ivalo airport is the resort of Kakslauttanen, where you can enjoy various winter activities and marvel ...

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